The Bjeshkët e Nemuna — the Accursed Mountains — are the most dramatic landscape in the country, and you can taste them in three days. Stone tower houses, waterfalls, the fjord-like Komani ferry and family guesthouses serving their own rakia and honey.
Up into the mountains to Theth — the lock-in tower, the church, the waterfall and the Blue Eye of Theth, with the night in a village guesthouse.
The Grunas canyon in the morning, then down to lakeside Shkodra — Rozafa Castle and the Marubi archive.
The famous Komani Lake ferry between sheer cliffs, then into the glacial Valbona valley — the other end of Albania's best-known hike.
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