Traditional Albanian slow food on a forest terrace with Berat & Tomorr views.

In a Ottoman-era house by the river. The tradita (stewed lamb) and homemade raki have made it a pilgrimage for food lovers.

In a 400-year-old stone house in the old bazaar. The qifqi (rice balls with mint) are the best in the city.

No sign, no menu. An old woman cooks babaçe (a local pastry) in a wood oven. Arrive before noon — she sells out.

Perched above the Osum River with a view of the white Ottoman houses. Try the stuffed peppers and the house red.

Housed in a 300-year-old building in the Mangalem quarter. The owners grow their own vegetables in the valley below.

A Tirana institution since 1997. Heavy wooden tables, traditional instruments on the walls, and the best tave kosi in the capital.