A Vlorë institution on the lungomare. The grandfather still picks the fish at the port at 5am; the grandsons run the wood grill. Sea bass and sardines, lemon and olive oil, end of story.

A no-nonsense fish house on the Durrës harbour where the boats unload at the back door. Order the daily catch by weight from the ice tray, choose the cooking method, and wait twenty minutes.

A third-generation fish tavern on Jale beach. Grandfather still goes out in the boat at 5am. Order whatever he caught.

Plastic chairs on the sand, paper tablecloths, and fish so fresh it was swimming an hour ago. The meze platter is enormous.

Right on the promenade. The fish comes off the boat at dawn and onto the grill by noon. Order the grilled octopus.